Cathedral Peak – 10,940 ft. elev.

Located high in the Yosemite Wilderness stands Natures Cathedral..

 Cathedral Peak is an outstanding granite pinnacle sculpted by the ancient glacier that carved the Yosemite Valley. The peak was first named Cathedral Spires, by Henry G. Hanks, James Hutchings, and Captain Corcoran, representatives of the San Carlos Mining and Exploration Company, while on a trip to the mines near Independence, but the Whitney Survey Party renamed the peak to Cathedral Peak.

 John Muir made the first ascent of Cathedral Peak, on September 7, 1869. After completing the first ascent of Cathedral Peak John Muir wrote, “This I may say is the first time I have been at church in California”

 On a sunny morning in August 1998 our adventure to Natures Cathedral began from Tuolumne Meadows. Darin, Travis and I followed the Bud’s Creek trail that meanders through the forest. Our goal was to climb the class 4 Mountaineers Route from the east side. Continuing out the Bud’s Creek trail we past by Lodgepole Pine, Silver Fir, and Mountain Hemlock. Throughout the forest the ground was covered with granite moraine material that was left from the ancient glacier that had carved the mountain. Reaching a clearing in the forest a view of Cathedral Peak came into view. The southeast buttress of Cathedral Peak cut into the blue sky as a granite knife-edge. The polished granite spire in contrast with the blue sky was incredible. Soon we reached the base of the mountain where the Mountaineers Route climbs up loose granite sand to the right of the polished granite spire. At this point we left our heavy backpacks at the base of the mountain and took only a small daypack for our climb to the summit. We started up through the steep granite sand that crumbled down the mountain with every step. After reaching the top of the strenuous granite sand slope we took a short break in a cluster of granite talus. I removed my boots at that point and emptied out granite sand and pebbles that had filled my boots from the climb. After a short break we continued our climb up steep twisted granite talus towards the jagged ridge above. Finally we reached the top of the jagged ridge and the sight of the Eichorn Pinnacle came into view. From this viewpoint we where in aw of the sculpted granite spire. I thought to myself, even the great cathedrals of Rome cannot match the grand scale of Natures Cathedral.

The Eichorn Pinnacle is located on the west end of the Cathedral Peak arete. The summit block of Cathedral Peak drops down a narrow granite knife-edge to the saddle at the base of the Eichorn Pinnacle, then rises up into a narrow vertical spire with a series of vertical cracks stretching up the full length to it’s summit point. Reaching this point Travis decided the risk to the summit was too great to continue on, but Darin and I did not want to give up yet. We took our day-packs off at this point and left them with Travis and ventured out to climb the second half of the mountain. Darin and I started by climbing down a cluster of twisted talus to a crack in the granite that lead to the saddle at the base of the Eichorn Pinnacle. Traversing out and across the mountain following the crack in the granite soon became quite hairy as we reached the midway point due to the steep angle and exposure to our right. We continued on slowly with intense caution with our feet on the granite crack and our hands clinging to the side of the mountain with every move as if balancing on a tight rope. Finally we reached the far side of the crack and scrambled the rest of the way up to the saddle. The view from the saddle was spectacular. Straight down below to the south was the deep blue Cathedral Lake bordered by a bright green meadow and polished granite.

  The vertical Eichorn Pinnacle was to the west and Tuolumne Meadows was to the north surrounded by granite domes and peaks. To the east was a narrow granite knife-edge leading straight up to the summit spire of Cathedral Peak. Darin and I took a long break at this point to catch our breath and try to figure out how we were going to climb up the granite knife-edge. After our break we continued on navigating our way up a series of granite cracks and exposed granite ledges. Reaching the midway point to the summit we took a short break. The view to the west looking straight down the granite knife-edge to the Eichorn Pinnacle was awesome. The view of the deep blue Lower Cathedral Lake beyond was split in half by the vertical Eichorn Pinnacle and Mt. Hoffman dominated the western skyline with small remains of the winter snow still clinging to it’s northeast side. After our break we continued on up a steep exposed crack in the granite until we reach a small ledge with a vertical pitch. We ventured out to the far left side of the ledge which came to an abrupt end with a 1,000’ vertical drop. The vertical pitch was at it’s lowest point near the edge of the cliff and the top of the pitch was within reach but the risk of climbing up and out on that exposed granite ledge would be insane. We took one last look at the vertical drop from the granite ledge and we both said no way. We felt we had reached the end of our journey so we took a good long look at the view and headed back. 

Half way back on the ledge I noticed a small crack in the granite pitch that ran vertically then hooked to the left and over the top. I pointed out the crack to Darin and suggested we should take one last chance to continue on. Darin and I took a good look at our option and we both decided to give it one last try. The ledge we were on was less than 4 foot wide and dropped away at a very steep angle for over 100 feet so we approach the climb with great caution. I reached up as high as I could on the granite crack but could not quite pull my self up. After a few attempts that failed I had Darin give me a boost and I was able to pull my self up and over the granite pitch. I could see the final stretch to the summit and felt good about our chance to make it. The next challenge we faced was getting Darin up and over the granite pitch without me giving Darin a boost. I decided the only way to help Darin up was to lower my legs down and over the ledge so Darin could pull himself up. So I wedged my right arm into the granite crack and griped the ledge as tight as I could with my left hand and lowered my legs over the ledge. Darin grabbed my legs and started to pull him self up. I hung on to the mountain as hard as I could but was beginning to slip. The weight of Darin pulling on my legs was all I could stand my right arm was wedge tight in the crack but I was loosing grip with my left hand. I soon began to fear that my shoulder was about to pop out of socket and we were about to fall off the cliff, then finally Darin grabbed hold of the top of the ledge and climbed up and over the top of me. I crawled up the ledge and to my feet and looked down the cliff and a cold shiver went down my spine with the thought of how close we came to falling. After our excitement wore down we continued on climbing up through a narrow wedge until we finally reached the final summit spire. The view was spectacular! The view to the north corner of the park stretched to Tower Peak then encompassed the entire Sierra Crest to the glacial carved Mt. Conness. To the east was Mt. Dana and Mt. Gibbs. Directly across from Buds Lake was the granite spire of Unicorn Peak and the Cathedral Range running southeast to Yosemites tallest mountain Mt. Lyell. Mt. Clark and the Clark Range was to the south, to the southwest was the deep glacial carved Tenaya Canyon and Clouds Rest.  Mt. Hoffman and Tuolumne Peak dominated the western skyline, and I was never so excited in my life to be at church.

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